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Jerez
«Jerez es famosa por su vino y sus caballos.»Jerez is famous for its wine and its horses.
Jerez de la Frontera is an inland city in the province of Cádiz, surrounded by the white vineyards of the 'marco' that bears its name. The centre preserves the Almohad Alcázar and the large bodegas, which occupy entire blocks with their tall, dark warehouses, and around which the city's work and trade were formed.
Did you know
The word sherry comes from here.
The English word 'sherry' actually derives from the British pronunciation of the name of this Andalusian city, a major wine exporter.
How they talk in Jerez
Local words
The Jerez dialect has strong aspiration of the final «s» and traits of «ceceo» among part of the population. «Tabanco» is a fundamental local word: it indicates the type of traditional establishment where wine is served directly from the barrel or cask.
hartible
A tiresome, insistent person or someone capable of tiring others out. Colloquial adjective or noun for someone who insists, annoys, or becomes exasperating.
Everyday life in Jerez
The «tabanco»
It is a tavern where wine is poured directly from the barrel and the bill is marked in chalk on the bar. You drink standing up, eat little, and at a certain hour someone starts singing without any announcement.
«Un fino de la bota, por favor.» — A fino from the barrel, please.
The «peñas» flamencas
These are neighbourhood clubs where people sing among members: it is not a show, there is no ticket and you don't applaud randomly. Visitors are welcome, but you must remain silent while someone is singing.
«Esta noche hay cante en la peña.» — Tonight there is cante at the peña.
Horses and the «Feria del Caballo»
In Jerez, horses are not just in riding schools: you can hear hooves in the centre, and during the weeks of the feria, carriages drive among the houses. It is a living trade, not a re-enactment for visitors.
«¿Vas a la Feria del Caballo?» — Are you going to the Feria del Caballo?
What to eat in Jerez
Fino en rama
The driest Jerez wine, served cold in a tall, narrow glass, poured directly from the barrel with a «venencia».
Berza jerezana
A thick soup of chickpeas, beans and vegetables with «pringá» meat inside. It is the dish for cold days.
Riñones al jerez
Kidneys sautéed in Jerez wine with garlic and parsley, served in a terracotta casserole.
Festivals in Jerez
Zambombas de Jerez
throughout December
People gather around a terracotta drum and sing Christmas carols to the rhythm of flamenco: in patios, in taverns, in the street, from the first of December until Christmas.
Fiestas de la Vendimia
in September
The first palomino grapes are pressed on the cathedral steps and the «venenciadores» pour the wine from a metre high without spilling a drop.
Feria del Caballo
in May
The horse in the middle of the city: carriages and «doma vaquera» in the González Hontoria park.
What to see in Jerez
Alcázar de Jerez
Built by the Almohads in the 12th century as a fortress and residence for governors: inside remain the mosque, the Arab baths and the baroque palace of Villavicencio.
Cathedral
From the 17th-18th century, with its dome and detached bell tower built on a previous tower. It stands at the top of the steps above the square.
Real Escuela Ecuestre
The Andalusian Riding School: shows with Carthusian horses are held in an indoor arena, and rehearsals can be seen almost every day.
Bodegas Tío Pepe
The large «bodegas» are part of the urban landscape: high, dark naves with barrels lined up in three stacked rows. They are called cathedrals of wine.
Where Jerez comes from
A city grown on the border
Roman era
Ceret
Agricultural centre in the countryside between Gades and Hasta Regia, among the vineyards.
8th–13th century
Sherish
Almohad fortified city: the Alcázar, the mosque and the Arab baths remain.
1264 → 15th century
Jerez de la Frontera
Alfonso X conquers it; «de la Frontera» because for two centuries it was the border with Granada.
18th century → today
The bodegas
The wine trade with England builds the large wineries and the modern city.
Born here: Lola Flores, singer and dancer.
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